Located in the traditional Guatemalan province of El Quiché, the town of Chichicastenango is one of the few places left in Guatemala where there is a real feel for native customs and history. The men and women still dress in dazzling traditional clothing and speak the Quiché language. Every Sunday and Thursday, their colorful textile market attracts visitors from around the globe looking for handicrafts such as textiles, wooden masks, jewelry and more. It is similar to the famous Otavalo market in Ecuador.
Getting to the Chichicastenango Market
It’s easy to get to the market from just about anywhere in Guatemala. Antigua and Panajachel are packed full of tour operators offering day trips in battered vans: they’ll give you about four hours or so at the market, which is plenty of time. For those going alone, Chichicastenango is about 45 minutes off the Pan-American Highway. Simply get off any bus at Los Encuentros and catch the next bus Northwest to Chichicastenango. Taking the buses from Antigua (Antigua-Chimaltenango, Chimaltenango-Los Encuentros, Los Encuentros-Chichicastenango) will save about ten dollars (US$) off the price of the van tour, but it takes longer and changing buses is a big hassle.
Shopping at the Chichicastenango Market
The Chichicastenango market vendors bring in textiles and goods from all over Guatemala: look for fine blankets from Momostenango, huipiles (blouses) from Sololá, etc. The only exception is jewelry made with Guatemalan jade: Antigua is still the only place to find that. There is a dizzying array of goods for sale. It’s mostly textiles and jewelry but there are other wonderful souvenirs as well.
As in most native markets, bargaining is the norm. There are no price tags: buyers and sellers have to agree on a price. Here are some tips:
- Never make the first offer. Wait and see what the starting price is.
- If someone mentions a price, he or she is pretty much expected to pay it.
- Buying many items from the same stall should result in a decent discount. Also, stand owners will usually pose for a photo after the deal is made.
- If the vendor does not want to come down, walk away. If he or she does not chase after a potential client, it means that the bottom price has been reached. It’s okay to go back and pay the last negotiated price.
- Not all of the vendors own stands: there are some vendors who walk around with a packet of stuff, usually masks, jewelry or textiles. It may seem like a good way to get a better deal, but these wandering vendors are often extremely aggressive: any visitor that shows even the minimum amount of interest in some trinket may have an annoying woman or kid following him or her around for the next half hour trying desperately to badger a sale.
Cultural Sensitivity
Visitors to the Chichicastenango market must bear a couple of things in mind. The people of the Guatemalan highlands are proud and often extremely suspicious (resentful, even) of outsiders. Do not take photos of individuals without permission. Photos of the market, church, etc. in general are fine. The church (impossible to miss in the central square) is worth a visit, but be advised that outsiders are expected to use the side door (it’s off to the right and through a little courtyard from the main entrance). The sign in the church says no photos and they mean it.
More on Guatemala Travel from Suite101:
Things to see and do in Antigua
The Ruins of Antigua, Guatemala
Christopher Minster - I'm a freelance writer. I mostly write about travel, history and culture. I enjoy writing fiction as well.
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