Empanada
Empanadas are found all over the Spanish-speaking world, and they differ depending on which country you’re visiting. In Ecuador, empanadas are made of a small amount of ground beef, chicken, potatoes, rice, onions, cheese and spices in any combination, wrapped in dough and then baked or deep-fried. Often you’ll see small ones served as a sort of appetizer when you order meals at nicer restaurants. If you’re traveling and eating on a budget, however, empanadas are a great way to fill up for cheap. Regular empanadas are large and hearty, about the size of a sandwich. One is a snack, two are a meal. You can find them at any bakery, and there are bakeries everywhere. A typical empanada costs about a dollar.
Fritada
Visitors to Ecuador may be shocked to see chopped-up pig carcasses hanging from hooks alongside the road: these are actually fritada stands. The vendors will carve out a slab of pig right when you place your order, chop it up into hunks each about the size of a golf ball, fry it in a special round, deep cauldron and serve it up you in a greasy newspaper page. Sounds gross, but it’s delicious (and habit forming)!
If eating at the side of the road doesn’t sound that appealing, you can order fritada at most Ecuadorian restaurants that serve regional food. It is often served with llapingachos, yellowish pancakes not unlike mashed potatoes. It is most popular in the regions to the north of Quito, but you can get it anywhere.
Hornado
Not everyone in Ecuador likes their pork fried: some prefer it roasted. Hornado is a pig (some of which are quite large) that has been roasted whole in a special oven. Hornado has a deeper, richer flavor than fritada, although it’s certainly not any better for you. It’s available at some restaurants and at roadside stands on the outskirts of most major cities. Like fritada, it is usually served with llapingachos.
Cuy (Guinea Pig)
It’s true: the cuddly pet you had as a kid is a meal in Ecuador (and in Peru and Bolivia, too)! Guinea pigs, locally known as cuy (pronounced "kwee") have formed an important part of the Andean diet since before the arrival of the Spanish. Unlike the other dishes listed above, cuy is rather hard to find in Ecuador. It is still common among rural indigenous people, who often raise their own in their home, but you won’t see it very much in cities like Quito or Guayaquil, and not at all in the Galápagos.
If you want to try it, your best bet is to go to one of the cities in the south, like Cuenca or Loja, where you’ll see it for sale from roadside vendors. You can also find it in indigenous areas, such as the small towns in the Cotopaxi area. Some touristy restaurants in Quito have it because visitors occasionally like to try it, but expect it to be somewhat expensive. Cuy is usually served roasted or grilled.
Christopher Minster - I'm a freelance writer. I mostly write about travel, history and culture. I enjoy writing fiction as well.
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